Skin Care
Many people praise dermaplaning for its silky-smooth results, but is this viral skin-care trend safe and effective? Yes—when done by a trained spa professional. Read on to clear up common myths, learn about possible downsides, and get tips to avoid dermaplaning regret.
Key Takeaways
– Professional recommendation: Have dermaplaning done by a certified professional to avoid mistakes and possible skin damage from DIY attempts.
– Skin suitability: Not everyone should get dermaplaning; certain skin conditions and sensitivities make it a poor choice.
– Post-treatment care: After dermaplaning, use a gentle skincare routine and protect your skin from the sun to prevent irritation and other issues.
Table of Contents
Jump to…
– What Is Dermaplaning?
– Dermaplaning Without Regrets
– Why Dermaplaning Should Only Be Done By An Esthetician
– Who Benefits From Dermaplaning?
– Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning?
– 6 Common Dermaplaning Regrets
What Is Dermaplaning?
Also called microplaning or blading, dermaplaning is a professional facial treatment that gently scrapes the skin with a special exfoliating blade. It removes dead skin cells, product buildup, and vellus hair (peach fuzz) on the cheeks and chin. The result is smoother, refreshed skin.
Tamara Hughes, Eminence Organics Regional Sales & Education Representative, says a common mistake is confusing dermaplaning with shaving. “Dermaplaning and shaving at home are very different and use different tools for different goals,” she notes. “They both use a blade across the skin, but that’s about it.”
Hughes adds, “Despite the many at-home blades available, dermaplaning should always be done by a certified dermaplaning technician.”
Want to learn more about dermaplaning? We have a full guide to the dermaplane facial.
How To Avoid Dermaplaning Regret
You may wonder if dermaplaning harms your skin. According to Healthline, dermaplaning can:
– Reduce the look of acne scars, pockmarks, and fine lines
– Give a smooth, radiant complexion immediately after treatment
– Make makeup and product application easier because the skin surface is smoother
Unlike laser hair removal and some other cosmetic treatments, dermaplaning requires little to no downtime—mainly extra sun protection and avoiding strong products for a bit. Because it only affects the top few layers of skin, it’s considered minimally invasive and carries less risk than many other treatments. Hughes says freshly dermaplaned skin can be an ideal base for chemical peels, facials, and microneedling.
Is dermaplaning safe at home? No—always get it done at a spa by a professional. Results usually last about three weeks. After treatment, your skin is more fragile and at higher risk of sun damage, so avoid heavy sun exposure and products that sting, like retinol, for a few weeks. People with certain skin conditions should skip dermaplaning (see list below).
Why Dermaplaning Should Only Be Done By An Esthetician
Hughes explains that certified technicians perform dermaplaning because the treatment removes two to three weeks’ worth of dead skin cells plus vellus hair. A professional uses a surgical blade at roughly a 45-degree angle mainly for exfoliation. By contrast, at-home facial razors have safety guards, sit at about a 35-degree angle, and are meant mostly for hair removal—not the same technique or purpose as professional dermaplaning.
Who Benefits From Dermaplaning?
Most skin types can respond well to dermaplaning. It can be especially helpful for people with:
– Acne scars and pockmarks
– Dull skin
– Dry skin
– Sun-damaged skin
– Fine wrinkles
– Concerns about vellus hair, which may thicken with age or conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome
Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning?
According to WebMD and Healthline, avoid dermaplaning if you have or recently had:
– Severe sunburn
– Active breakouts
– Very sensitive skin
– Used Accutane or tretinoin in the last 6 months
– Cancer treatment
– Keloids
– Eczema
– Rosacea
– Spider veins
– Cystic acne
– Hirsutism
– Viral infections like chickenpox or shingles
Common Dermaplaning Regrets
Regret #1: Trying It at Home
At-home dermaplaning tools are easy to find, but DIY dermaplaning can cause serious problems. “Dermaplaning should always be done by a certified technician to avoid injury and adverse reactions,” Hughes warns. Research technicians, read reviews, and talk through the treatment before booking.
Without proper training, sterilization, and technique, you risk cuts, irritation, infection, or even scarring. Some people report bumps and ingrown-hair–like reactions after using old or improper blades.
Regret #2: Making Breakouts Worse
The Cleveland Clinic notes that the sliding motion of dermaplaning can spread bacteria and worsen breakouts. Avoid dermaplaning if you have acne, active breakouts, or are on acne medications like isotretinoin. If your skin is clear and you still want the treatment, work with a pro who can keep tools away from any broken skin.
Regret #3: Irritating Sensitive Skin
You might feel silky-smooth right after, but sensitive skin can become tight or scraped a few hours later. Talk to your esthetician or dermatologist before the treatment to decide if dermaplaning is right for you. For occasional sensitivity, ask about oil planning—a layer of facial oil is applied before dermaplaning to reduce friction. The treatment should be slow, gentle, and light to avoid irritation or scratches.
Regret #4: Triggering a Cold Sore
Dermaplaning can reactivate the herpes simplex virus if done near a previous cold sore site. Tell your provider about any cold sore history. Your doctor may prescribe oral antiviral medication to prevent an outbreak before treatment.
Regret #5: Skipping Post-Treatment Care
After dermaplaning you’ve exposed newer, more sensitive skin, so a restorative routine is important. SELF.com notes that epidermal cells turn over about every 14 days, so support your skin in the weeks after treatment to keep it smooth and healthy.
Focus on:
– Hydrating serums and hyaluronic acid
– Regular moisturizing
– Daily sunscreen to protect against UV damage
– Avoiding products that cause tingling
– Skipping retinol for a few weeks
– Gentle cleansing
With the right care and a professional touch, dermaplaning can refresh your skin and leave it feeling smooth. If you want to try it, use our Spa Locator and contact your nearest Eminence Organics Spa Partner to see if they offer dermaplaning services.